
Along the cliffs from Niagara Falls to the islands north of Tobermory there exists some of the world’s oldest cliff-dwelling trees. Some of those trees live within 60 miles of 7 million people in southern Ontario.
Hyperion, a redwood, is the tallest tree on Earth at 382 feet and growing. General Sherman, a Sequoia, is 277 feet tall with an astounding base of 103 feet. Not all ancient trees, however, are tall or big. Methuselah, a bristlecone pine, is the world’s oldest known living single-stemmed tree; he’s over 4,600 years old. He’s not tall or big; he’s weather beaten; he’s gnarly and near immortal.
The Niagara Escarpment is 420 miles long and made up of 400 million year old sedimentary rocks. For 130 million years the escarpment was under a Silurian Sea. Those rocks contain a rich mixture of tiny sea-dwelling animals without backbones known as invertebrates.
About 13,000 years ago the dolomitic caprock of the escarpment emerged from under the immense Wisconsinan Ice Sheet. For another 6,000 years it remained submerged under glacial Lake Algonquin. Lake levels fluctuated for thousands of years, but about 3,500 years ago the Niagara Escarpment resembled the landform seen today.
The rock faces of the Niagara Escarpment are awesome. The maple and beech forests provide exquisite habitat for many critters. The escarpment is also a favourite destination for hikers and rock-climbers.
Until the late 1980s little was known about the eastern white cedars growing along the cliff faces.
University of Guelph botanist Professor Douglas Larson began to explore the trees growing out of shear rock faces and on ledges. What he quickly discovered was that these trees were old.
Eastern white cedars are amazing trees with a wide flexibility enabling them to live in swamps, on acidic thin soils and along cliffs. An average tree can produce in excess of 260,000 seeds in a life-time. And each tree has the ability to clone itself by rooting a branch that touches the ground. This trait protects swamp eastern white cedars when they tip-over. They don’t die easily.
As a matter of fact, Native North Americans steeped bark and needles from eastern white cedar, which provided vitamin C, and saved the French explorer Jacque Cartier and his men from survey in 1535-36. Cartier named this tree arbor vitae or the tree of life.
Native North Americans used eastern white cedars to build canoes and longhouses. The wood is highly rot resistant. They also derived many medicines from these trees.
In 1989 Dr Larson and his newly formed Cliff Ecology Research group began to actively explore the cliff-dwelling eastern white cedars along escarpment. Led by ecologist and rock-climber Peter Kelly the group used ropes to repel cliff faces. They began to find thousand year old living, weather-beaten and in many cases upside down living eastern white cedars.
With the assistance of Banff- and Los Angeles-based conservation institute Global Forest Science and others, Larson’s group began the formidable task of mapping the entire 700-kilometre length of cliff dwelling forests. What they discovered was extraordinary.
Along the Bruce Peninsula they found two exceptionally ancient dead trees. One tree had in tact 1,653 rings or years of growth. Some growth rings were worn away from the other tree. Kelly estimated its age to be 1,890 years.
That antiquitous eastern white cedar would easily have outpaced Canada’s oldest known living tree – a 1,693 old yellow cedar from coastal B.C.
Over the next decade Peter Kelly went on to discover the oldest living eastern white cedar on the Niagara Escarpment – he called it the Ancient One with 1,320 rings or years of growth. It was born at the time the first Buddhist temple was built.
He found other ancient upside down, twisted, deformed yet defiant survivors; he gave them names like: Octopus Tree, Water-Fall Tree and Flying Elephant Tree.
These ancient trees show no sign of ageing. They, like the near immortal bristlecones of the eastern central White Mountains of California out-grow the ground beneath them – the sedimentary rocks break down before the trees die.
Erosion of sedimentary cliff faces and rock-falls along the Niagara Escarpment are what eventually kills the eastern white cedars. Similar to the britlecones, eastern white cedars are able to survive with as little as 10 percent living bark and thrive for centuries while hanging on literally by threads of life.
The key to long tree life is slow, at times almost imperceptible, growth. Our species has much to learn from this long-lived, persistent strategy of making haste slowly.
The Last Stand – A Journey Through the Ancient Cliff-Face Forest of the Niagara Escarpment
Peter E. Kelley and Douglas W. Larson
http://www.amazon.ca/Last-Stand-Journey-Cliff-Face-Escarpment/dp/1897045190
SAVE THE BEES http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6w-Z7XlnHI
Dr Reese Halter is a public speaker, conservation biologist and founder of the international conservation institute Global Forest Science. His latest book is entitled The Incomparable Honey Bee http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=The+Incomparable+HoneyBee+reese+halter&x=0&y=0 He can be contacted through www.DrReese.com







